San Francisco is set to welcome a new addition to its culinary scene this summer with the opening of JouJou, an old-school French restaurant. The restaurant, conceptualized by chef David Barzelay and his team from Lazy Bear, aims to blend traditional French dining with contemporary flair.

About JouJou

The name JouJou, which translates to “plaything” in French, has been a long-anticipated project. Located in a spacious 6,000-square-foot venue at One Henry Adams Street, formerly occupied by The Grove, this restaurant is poised to bring a sense of grandeur to the Design District.

Reviving Fine Dining Traditions

Recent trends in the dining industry suggest a resurgence of formal dining experiences, moving away from minimalist aesthetics towards a more luxurious atmosphere. Chef Barzelay anticipates reinvigorating elements that many have not experienced firsthand, such as table-side fish filleting or flaming desserts.

JouJou takes inspiration from esteemed establishments like New York’s Café Carmellini and Café Boulud, both of which have successfully revived classic dining traditions. The goal at JouJou is to provide diners with familiar, comforting dishes rather than avant-garde cuisine. As Barzelay notes, “We’re not going for esoteric, boundary-pushing cuisine… We’re not trying to give you new and strange flavors that you’ve never had before.”

Menu Highlights

The menu at JouJou will feature a variety of traditional French dishes, including:

• Salmon almondine with dill beurre blanc
• Shrimp bisque
• Duck à l’orange
• Perfectly executed dinner omelettes
• Grand seafood towers inspired by New York’s Balthazar

Furthermore, dishes with French influences from New Orleans may also make an appearance, broadening the scope of the culinary offerings.

A Unique Dining Space

The restaurant’s interior will be designed by Jon de la Cruz, known for his work at Che Fico. Barzelay describes the vision for the decor as reminiscent of a “grand old belle epoque resort on the French Riviera, renovated in the sleazy ’70s.” This blend of opulence and nostalgia aims to recapture the lost charm of fine dining.

Context of the Opening

As high-profile restaurant openings have become less common in the city, JouJou stands out as a significant event. Barzelay and his business partner, Colleen Booth, are exercising caution in their expansion plans, having recently overseen renovations at the Michelin two-starred Lazy Bear. Other projects include support for former Lazy Bear chef Matthew Kirk’s Automat and the high-end cocktail venue True Laurel.

Looking Forward

Barzelay expresses excitement about reviving the sense of elegance in dining experiences that many feel has diminished in recent years, particularly following the pandemic. He recalls the glamour of establishments like Stars, a celebrated San Francisco restaurant that captured the essence of fine dining in the late ’80s and ’90s.

The anticipation surrounding JouJou marks a hopeful resurgence in the city’s dining landscape, with this opening possibly paving the way for more notable culinary ventures in the near future.