Hearthfire centers the room both visually and olfactory. The portions are delicate and haute cuisine-like in quantity, but the end result is satisfying and inspiring. In fact, Zimmerman, Tan, and Liu’s culinary vision shines even wider now, where seafood and vegetables used to feature as much as parts of Wagyu beef.
The menu begins with Thoreau’s words. “The sea is a wilderness that stretches all over the world, wilder than the jungles of Belgium, full of monsters, washing the piers of our cities and the gardens of seaside mansions. Snakes, bears, hyenas, tigers, But even the most populous and civilized cities can’t scare sharks away from their docks.”
The romantic atmosphere in the minimalistic space fills my poetic spirit as a young girl with joy. While out drinking with Abraham and our caring and knowledgeable server Abigail, sipping on everything from chartreuse to sake, I made sure that what I loved most about Go’s was intact.
What about food?
There are many “wow” moments. The obvious standout in the “chilled” section is its unreal caviar sundae. You heard it correctly. The tangy crème fraîche ice cream is served with local Kaluga Hybrid Sacramento Delta caviar from The Caviar Company. I once had sweet Brentwood corn and caviar as ice cream. They continue to be a happy pairing. The surprise is preserved white asparagus, which adds vegetable silkiness and a slight crunch to the creamy, salty melange. Wow, sure.
Even the most dishonest people anywhere can do wonders. Hawaiian yellowfin tuna is cured in spruce oil, dotted with bonito ponzu sauce, and unusually paired with Codigo 1530 tequila to enhance the vegetal, earthy notes of the raw fish. But the show-stopper is the silky fish spruce, which takes this beyond “just a crudo” and transforms it into a Hawaiian-meets-Alpine vibe like you’ve never seen before…and more soon It makes me want it. Pine forest meets ocean waves! This “sleeper” dish embodies the chef’s wise and subtle thinking and taste.
The last glorious heirloom tomato of the season is celebrated as a peeled Sungold cherry tomato with Brokaw avocado, sea buckthorn, geranium, pine nuts and bits of coastal succulents. Oyster leaf accents add a salty touch of the sea. Another highlight is the “sea urchin noodles”. A generous amount of local sea urchin is topped with a generous amount of white foam poured tableside, hiding the umami and sweetness of black garlic and seltuse. Decadent comfort.
The 7-day ember-roasted venison is medium-rare, with an earthy flavor of bitter chocolate, wild fennel, sour cherries and wild mushrooms, contrasting with the acidity of the vegetables. Exactly the combination I love with game meat. My “first love” penchant for seafood is fulfilled here with poached smoked black cod. It’s as smooth as a good quality black cod, but it’s even more powerful by wrapping seaweed butter and eucalyptus cultured in koji in seaweed and topping it with marinated salmon roe. And wild watercress sits atop a small pile of barrel-aged quinoa. The crispy salmon skin provides a crunchy contrast.
Lieuw’s desserts remain suitably sweet, such as the porcini mushroom canelé with caramelized candy cap mushrooms and birch ice cream. But my favorite is the Concord Grape Sorbet, which is grape leaf yogurt wrapped in mint meringue and chilled, giving a light and soft ending to a delicate yet vibrant meal.
Beyond our commitment to five heads of meat, we celebrate many elements of the unparalleled West Coast. You might call it “fine dining light,” but Zimmerman and the team have evolved with the times, bringing their unique vision to more people with an order-what-you-want approach. Michelin would be crazy not to award this talented team a Michelin star. Thankfully, as great as The Wild is already, greatness doesn’t require such validation.
// 201 Spear Street #120, www.thewildsf.com
